Barrel Threading

Concentric to the bore, not just the outside

Threads that are cut to the outside of the barrel instead of the bore are how you get a baffle strike or a can that shifts your point of impact. We indicate the bore on the lathe and cut the threads true to it, so the muzzle device or suppressor sits square to the line the bullet actually travels. That concentricity is the whole reason to have a barrel threaded by a machinist instead of a drill press.

The muzzle is crowned or chamfered as part of the job so the thread start is clean and the crown is protected, and you get the firearm back with a thread protector installed so the threads aren't exposed until you mount something.

The right thread for your muzzle

We cut most popular thread pitches. The common ones cover most of what walks in — 1/2×28 for most .223/5.56 and 9mm, 7/16×28, and 5/8×24 for .30-caliber — but the correct thread depends on your barrel's caliber, contour, and what you're mounting. Tell us the firearm and the device or suppressor, and we'll confirm the thread before we set up.

There has to be enough barrel and enough shoulder to thread safely. On a short or heavily contoured barrel we'll measure before committing, and if there isn't enough material we'll tell you rather than cut something that shouldn't be cut.

How a threading job runs here